Traditional Developers:
LINK: B&W Film Developer informational Flickr page
LINK: Massive Developing Chart
LINK: Some info on different developers
LINK: Some info on film + developers and their properties
PDF: Film Grain information
PDF: Film - Developer choices
LINK: "Stand" developing using Rodinal 1:100
Coffee + Vitamin C developers:
LINK: Develop film using coffee
LINK: More coffee recipes from caffinol.com
Developing Ortho-Litho Film as continuous tone:
TRY: Tektol 1:9
TRY: "I've been messing around with lith film, Arista and Kodak, in my Century and Speed. I shoot it at ISO 6 (not a typo, it's slow film) and develop it in Rodinal at 1:150 dilution. I use 11X14 tray so I don't have to "card shuffle" and scratch the thin emulsion. I agitate once every minute only. Around 7 to 8 min at 68F seems to work. You can watch it under the red safelight. You can also cut film to size under a red safelight.
1:150 is really dilute, so the developer exhausts quickly, and has to be replaced more often than stronger dilutions. The weak dilution controls the contrast build-up and the negs look quite good. Use a plain water stop as an acid stop sometimes gives pinholes in the thin emulsion. The negs look thin, but give good prints. D76 1:3 works too, but builds contrast faster. (I like the Rodinal better) Enjoy." (from graflex.org)
Pyro (staining) developers: (warning poisonous!)
LINK: PMK Pyro
LINK: What is Pyro?
LINK: http://jbhphoto.com/blog/tag/pyro/
LINK: Making enlarged negatives using Ortho Litho film and Pyro PMK
TONING B&W PRINTS
- LINK: HaloChrome and Silver plating B&W prints
- LINK: Toning B&W Silver Gelatin Prints (see books/binder for recipes and more info) also read this
- LINK: Types of Toners and their uses PDF
B&W FILM REVERSAL PROCESS
- LINK: Photo Formulary Kit Instructions
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